Monday, December 14, 2015

5 Best Things About Living in the Village

Lest you think that our arrival in town was all town-loving and village-hating, let me share the 5, kinda big, things that we really loved about the village life:

  1. Relationship Building
    It was so so easy to get to know people in the village. Town is much like home in that respect. You come to know only the people at the places you go. Instead of pulling into a garage at the end of the day, we pull into our gated compound laced with barbed wire. Everyone's house is like this (though some people do walk). But coming to know your neighbors is hard.
    In the village, there is no barbed wire, because it's way harder to be a criminal when everyone knows everything. In the village, everybody walks. Everybody stops by and visits. There are some people you spend more quality time with than others, but you don't need to
    seek an opportunity to build relationships, you just need to sit on your porch.
  2. The Simple Pace
    Even when work was to be done in the village, it was a simple pace. Work 15 minutes tilling the earth and then take a break, drink a kulau (green coconut; or perhaps coconut water would be a more explanatory translation), eat some roasting taro kongkong (type of potato), then work another 15 minutes.
    There was no office to be at. No clock to worry about. They told time by sun (though, gauging by my watch, they were most often wrong…)
    The beginning of things was marked by hitting a garamut (a hollowed hunk of tree, that sounded like a deep rich drum resounding through the jungle). That was the signal to come and, when the most important participants arrived, that's when they would begin.
  3. The Community
    If someone had a large task before them, like sewing morota for an entire house, their whole family (which is often the entire village) would come to help make the work light.
    James was cared for by the entire village. Everyone loved the white baby who would eat anything. It was pretty much free babysitting all the time. 
  4. Spending Time Outside
    James loves loves loves to be outside. And, in the village, outside is where you spend your day, unlike town which has us in the house or in the office. (We live on the second floor and there's no baby rail on the stairs.)
    The scenery was gorgeous, the wind was lovely, and there were a plethora of animal to enthrall James.
  5. Price of Living
    Sure, we brought a pretty penny's worth of food to the village but there was no rent, electric bills, or water bills! (except for what you give to the nationals who haul your water for you as a thank you…) The people who live in the village have it even better with gardens which
    significantly reduces their grocery budget, cooking over a fire eliminating gas bills. And there's pretty much no reason for insurance for the nationals.


We are so very excited to move out to our village allocation and add the work of translation and literacy to the best things list!

Thursday, December 10, 2015

3 Hardest Things about Our Village Living with POC

First, let me take the time to distinguish between living in the village and Village Living with POC. The Pacific Orientation Course is a training course for survival and success in the Melanesian region. This is culminated in a "practical exam", where they drop you off in the village for a month, and hope to hear you're alive at the end of it. (Just kidding, they care more than I made that sound.)
But for a month stay, we were hardly set up in the Hyatt.
But it wasn't so much the quality of the accommodations (although, I have already mentioned the house layout) as it was the nature of the beast when considering the limited cargo we were advised to bring. When we get to bring what we want (/can afford) to bring, these problems likely won't be problems and we'll have to generate a new list!

  1. Limited Resources
    I touched on this in The Top 10 Things I Really Really Appreciate about Town Living. But there were three killer limited resources: water, power, and internet.
    • James' "sister" would haul water for us. We had three water buckets: 7, 5, and 3 gallons. We could normally get by for three days, being very conservative. But on the third day… Hopefully Jenipa hadn't gone to the garden or hopefully it had rained the night before and there was water in the missionary of yesteryear's tank. And our Berkey water filter, while amazing, filtered very very slowly. So if we filled up the head tank before we went to bed, and kept topping up throughout the day, we were normally fine. But woe to us if we had forgotten. And added woe if another family came a-visiting on such a day and asked for water. There were hours where Jacob and I sat in thirst, having given the last of the clean water to James, waiting for the enough drips to fall from the filter to satisfy our thirst. It was an oversight we didn't make often. It was the sort of thing where if an hour after going to bed, we realized we had forgotten, we would get up and get it sorted.
    • We had a small solar charger. When it's battery was full, it could charge my cell phone from dead for a few days in a row before running out. But even on the sunniest day, it could get enough solar power to replace what we used each day. So going out fully charged, it wouldn't be many days before it was dead and so were all of our phones. But my phone is my camera, so even on flight mode, it was anxious making to have it just dead. The phones are also our alarms. Our malaria medicine day got pushed back a day because we woke up and realized that with the phone's dead, we had forgotten. (We found out about half way into our stay that a friend had an impressive solar panel system and he would recharge our battery when we got low.)
    • In times when power wasn't scarce, internet was. We occasionally got better than 2G data. Guys. No internet is better than slow, unreliable internet. Shrugging and saying, "Better find something else to waste my life on" is way lass frustrating than "YOU ARE SUPPOSED TO WORK SO DO IT!" Though I think I was still in the village when I discovered that Instagram uploads pictures way better than Facebook. That was happy making.
       
  2. Brevity of Time
    I am problem solver, not a wallower. At 12, I read Wizard's First Rule by Terry Goodkind, and one thing that always stuck with me is the wizened old grandfather character's admonition, "Focus on the solution. Not the problem."
    So there were a bunch of little "problems".
    • My bed was on the floor so I had to sit up, tuck myself under the mosquito net, then hoist my pregnant belly into a squat before standing up from a squat. Luckily we're only talking 2nd trimester here.
    • The walk down to the water was really too ridiculous for me to manage, so I would take a cup bath in my room. Towering over a 2 foot wide basin and hoping to catch the water I pour over my head in it was ridiculous.
    • The place was a chaotic mess because there were no shelves, no places to put things.
Little problems with obvious and simple solutions, but we were only there for a month. Which was enough time to be bothered but not enough time to warrant fixing the problems. And that was the hardest thing of them all: having a solution to a problem but not being able to execute the solution because it wasn't worth it.
  1. The Proximity of the Rents
    No offense to all the parents out there, but we all know that there's a brief window of time when it's cool to crash with your folks. That window ends at 16 and you have to endure at least until 18. And moving back in is almost always really difficult. They're just there. All the time. And you have to interact with them. And coordinate life together. Instead of just being autonomous.
    Our wasfemili lived 10 feet from our front door. Given that our room was an oven, and our veranda was a veranda, and our hauskuk's door was outside our house, we pretty much lived in the same house. Just a very drafty house that had a tendency to rain between our living quarters and theirs.
    But they were right there. All the time. We couldn't walk to the hauskuk without having to exchange pleasantries. We couldn't go to the outhouse without having to exchange pleasantries. And sometimes, some days, you don't want to deal with that. I might even be so bold to say most days, you don't want to deal with small talk en route to the loo.
     
So when we get out to the village where we'll be living (TBD), we'll bring a water tank of some caliber, a solar panel system powerful enough to manage our power needs, a bed frame, that plastic thingy you line a shower with, and stuff for shelves, and we'll have more than enough time to solve problems.
In fact, I've told Jacob, I might be that person who slowly edifies and perfects a house until at the end of our term, we're like, "why bother with an Americanized house? Let's just lay a concrete foundation and call it a day." As long as the bones of the house are quality, it will really take no effort to tear down the woven bamboo walls when I tire of them and replace them with paneling.

We'll have to see how feasible that is, but I certainly like the idea!

Stay Tuned for the 5 Best Things about Village Living!

Wednesday, December 9, 2015

Top 10 Things I Really Really Appreciate About Town Living

As I was reading over my last effort at a blog post for typos, I was bored senseless. Which may just be because it's old hat to me now, but I'm going to go with, No, For Real, This is Boring. And not post that.
We'll jump that ship of Things I Learned in the Village For My Future Village Living, because really it's just housekeeping stuff, and, unless you care, no one cares.
So moving on!

Top 10 Things I Really Really Appreciate About Town Living

Not all of the following are untrue of village living, per se. But they were things that we were without during the village living portion POC (and many of them POC, too!) Hopefully, #8, 6, and 2, at very least, we will have in our village living time when we allocate.  But in this moment, right now, these are the things I'm appreciating.

  1. Microwaving Rice
    We had a single burner kerosene stove. So it was no joy to occupy it with a pot of rice, more than doubling the time we would spend cooking our meal in the already too hot hauskuk. 10 minutes in the microwave and it's perfect every time and waiting for us to hurry up with the entrée already!
  1. Driving
    Can I even express how much having a car makes me feel like an adult? PBT has lent us one of their fleet for driving around town while we're here and it is sooo nice to grab my car keys and walk out the door when I want to go somewhere.
  1. 2 Bedrooms
    This extends past village living, past POC, past our three months in Dallas, to the entirety of James' life. With the exception of a couple homes that we briefly stayed at on our PD trip across the world, James slept in our room. There was always worry of waking him. And now, we keep it down, of course, but there's no need for silence.
  1. Stores
    You know when you're like, "I would really like _________" so you jump in your car and head to the store and grab what you want and go home? Yeah, in the village that doesn't happen so easily. Now there's no Walmart here and I fiercely miss being able to stop at one store and get everything I need and go home, but compared to village living, many things I need are just down the road.
  1. Power
    We had an ill-equipped solar charger in the village. It could only get enough power from the sun each day to charge my phone to 60%, though it's battery was capable of doing much better. Constantly fretting about whether my phone was in flight-mode or off and if I would have enough power for those Kodak moments… It was stressful. I'm not used to limited resources. (Even at POC, we had one outlet and one plug adapter.)
  1. Free WI-FI
    We got internet in the village and at some points it was even faster than the office internet, but the office internet is free and when you're paying for the mb (THE MEGABYTE! For comparison, cell phone plans are sold by the gigabyte (1024mb in a 1gb) and home internet plans are sold on the speed with UNLIMITED INTERNET! We don't have that) free is so so nice.
  1. Indoor Plumbing
    When your options are going to a spider infested outhouse down a muddy hill or using a bucket which then needs to be emptied in said outhouse, a toilet really does look like a porcelain throne.  Also not having to worry about the water, that was hauled a 10 minute hike uphill, running out when washing dishes or drinking is really nice.
  1. Morning Sounds
    The ocean is two blocks from our house. I can see it through the palm trees on days when it doesn't perfectly match the sky. …I guess even then I can still see the ocean, I just can't discern the ocean… But the sounds of the waves crashing on the rocky shore wafts through the silence to greet us in the morning and it's much more lovely to wake to than roosters, who do NOT say cock-a-doodle-doo, but scream like a woman being murdered right outside (and many times under) your house.
  1. Cushions
    This was another thing that in the village, we were like, "we cannot leave for village living again without:" cushions. I mean, I can sit on the ground or a wooden bench as well as the next guy, but not all day every day forever. I would wake up in the morning, sit on a trunk to drink coffee, and moan at the soreness that had not alleviated during the night. Here, the cushions aren't great. I can still get sore. But comparatively?  Really really appreciated.

  1. The Refrigerator
    Guys. Friends. Supporters. Loved Ones. I can not tell you. how many times. in the village. I have said. "Everything would be so much easier to handle if I just had ice." I mean, really, village life wasn't overwhelmingly rough but there were some key stressors and if I could just have some cold water, or Pepsi, or Mio enhanced water, or whatever, I could really say, "I hear you annoying me right now, but I really don't have time to focus my attention on you because right now I have an ice cold glass of water that demands my appreciation."
    Pulling a pitcher of water out of the refrigerator here...
    Guys.
    Friends.
    Supporters.
    Loved Ones.
    I had forgotten water
    could be that cold.
     

Saturday, December 5, 2015

Village Time in Wasabamal - The Hauskuk

How many times have I sat down to write a blog about our month in the village?
It's just so broad of a topic.
It's like when I come visit a place and ask what's new.
"Oh. Same old, same old."
And it's pretty unlikely that nothing new has happened in anyone's life since I last saw them, which is often a solid chunk of time. But the question is so broad that, unless something really major happened, it just seems like there's nothing worth reporting.
But I hate it when people answer that way. Because it ends the conversation. So I'm going to try.

…..
Ok here goes!

My main objective going out to the village was different than most of the students at POC*. While they were going out to get a taste of how people lived in the village on the day-to-day, we had already seen and experienced that during our time in Anguna in 2012 and my time in Samban in 2010. So our objective was to figure out how we were going to live life in the village on the day-to-day.


So the first thing, I guess, is house layout. When you're doing tiny living, layout and organization is key. Our space was about 350 sqft. The hauskuk (kitchen) had a dirt floor, where the rest of the house was on stilts. A window from the "veranda" (or room with windows, as I would call it) had a window opening into the hauskuk (which was very nice for passing things up and down!) That was the only window in the hauskuk. And it had a copper roof. So, needless to say, it was hot. But I digress. The hauskuk had a door that had been repurposed into a table. Which would have been enough space if we didn't need to set our stove and "sink" (two wash basins) somewhere. So we prepped at the table on the veranda and passed things up and down through the conveniently located window. But then Jacob was in the hauskuk manning the fire and washing dishes while I prepped the food. Well, this isn't really culturally appropriate behavior for a man.

Yes, yes, I hear your outrage and indignation at outdated gender roles. Yay feminism, boo dominance in the name of tradition. But this actually ends up being a mysticism issue. My sources tell me that Papua New Guineans believe in something that they do not call, but we would, juju. And a man engaging in woman's work is bad juju. And if you try to do things with a man with bad juju, then those things won't go well. So people may like Jacob just fine and recognize that he's serving his wife and that's all fine and good, but as long as they believe in juju, Jacob will be ostracized from various things. And that's not really a good position for a missionary to be in. So we'll combat juju when we can do it in ways that won't jeopardize our ability to share the Gospel, and where we can't, we'll trust God to as He transforms lives in Papua New Guinea.

Observe the inlaid basins
So we need a better hauskuk layout for sure, to maximize square footage.
An area for prep.
We'll bring out a more real stove ($215), so it won't demand counter-space (and to have more than one burner, and an oven! And not have to stand on tip-toes to look into the pot! Oh, I'm swooning!)
Windows. It was so hot, it was miserable to be in there.  
A spot to have my wash basins in the counter, you know, like a real sink.
And a pantry sized rat box (a box that rats have trouble getting into (rats can chew through concrete. You can't really keep them out but you can make it more of a hassle than it's worth).
....



Bam! Look at that! That's a decent sized blog post! With a description of our time in the village, a cultural tidbit, and a glance at the future?! Nailed it!
Let's see if I can pull off a continuation of at least equal quality tomorrow!



*Pacific Orientation Course - The three month training course on how to survive in the jungle that was concluded with a month stay in the village and just successfully completed by us!

Friday, December 4, 2015

Missing A First World Christmas

I'm going to say words. Because they're true and honest. Not because I have regrets. But because I have feelings.

One of the hardest things right now in this Holiday Season so far from home is that I'm a first world girl in a third world country. (I know. You thought I was going to say family. But really, I had braced myself for that. That was an expected struggle. This caught me unaware.)

I miss the hustle and the bustle of the holiday season. I miss putting on my pea coat and scarf and boots (oh! How I miss boots!) and going to the mall, all decked in Christmas cheer with seasonal music playing and people with parcels talking and laughing as they flit from store to store. I miss going to Starbucks and getting my red cup, regardless of what design is or isn't on it. A triple grande peppermint white mocha. And I miss looking through their ornaments and mugs and watching people pass by the glass windows while my coffee is being hand crafted. And I miss following whoever I'm with as they work on their Christmas shopping, because, let's not play, my income level was on the low side, so I wasn't actually involved in much consumerism myself.
And I miss finding the exact something I was looking at in the mall (but was a little too expensive to buy for myself, especially during the holidays) under the tree, because the person I was following saw me eyeing it and thought to get it for me.
I miss the spirit of giving that's found back home with all the atmosphere of the season mixed in. (Not that there's not a spirit here! These are some of the most generous people I've ever met, but the atmosphere is a little lacking…)
I know that the spirit of giving can become a little corrupted with the spirit of receiving and consumerism, but for a lot of people, I think that the "pagan" aspects of Christmas still have Christ at the heart, reflecting His gift to the world in our gifts to each other.
And I miss the whole shebang.

Here, stores have some garland and a garishly decorated tree. Sometimes Christmas music is playing but often it's a bit odd… Like the mash-up of Hark the Herald Angels and Dame La Gasolina we heard the other day. And it's really no weather for a pea coat and the lightest of scarves would be stifling. The other day I thought it felt like a nice spring day and looked to see it was 90*. 

How I miss all the little things "The Season" entails…
But even while I get tucked into bed with visions of lattes dancing in my head, I know that the reason for the season is Christ coming to the world for everyone. Even these people with tacky Christmas trees and an utter lack of winter here in Papua New Guinea. And we're here, my little family of 3 1/2, to help see transformed lives, through translation, literacy, and incarnational living. To help those far from God, to help the skin Christians (nominal Christians), and to help those with the cargo cult mentality (a mix between consumerism and the prosperity gospel) be raised to true life through the most precious gift of all: Christ Jesus.

So I'll download a Christmas music playlist, and decorate my house as pretty as I can, and watch Christmas movies, all shamelessly in the name of teaching my son American culture so he won't return to America as a bushkanaka (jungle hillbilly). And while I'm relishing in the semblance of Christmas culture I have cultivated here, I'll busy myself with work to help bring the Good News of the birth of Christ to the people here in their heart language, so that it can truly change their hearts.  

All of our work is done through generous people who are willing to give a bit of their income to the Bible-less of Papua New Guinea. If you would like to extend the Spirit of Giving this Holiday season to this ministry, whether through a special gift or a monthly commitment, you can check out our giving page or email me personally and I can let you know how you can help! Thank you! 

Saturday, November 7, 2015

A day in the village


At about 5:30am, my eyes pop open. Usually this is due to the sounds of the village up and about around us. Light shines through the holes in the woven bamboo walls, illuminating the room like a disco ball. It isn't long before James wakes up, talking to himself. I can just make out his silhouette through the gossamer of my mosquito net, his blue mosquito net, and the mesh of the pack and play. He's sitting up, playing with his octopus.
Jacob and I untuck the mosquito net on our respective sides from between the 4" foam mattress and the linoleum sheet we had laid out to keep the bugs from crawling up between the rustic planks of our hardwood floor and into our mattress. I change out of my pj shorts and into a skirt before tossing the shorts under the protection of my mosquito net so a spider doesn't take up residence in them during the day.
Jacob is changing James' diaper. This temporary setting isn't ideal for washing cloth diapers, so we switched to disposables, using an empty pocket diaper as a cover to protect it from the grueling wear and tear James inflicts on it.
I make James a bottle. He's weaned but still taking formula and has made the switch to cold formula, which is lovely because its a hassle to get a fire or the stove going each time he's hungry.
The Berkey filter The Rising gave us provides "indoor plumbing" (as long as we keep refilling it with enough time for it to filter). I lay James on his back on the linoleum we have laid out in our living room (? They call it a veranda but with three windows and a door, it seems like a room to me) and give him his bottle.
Jacob takes a days worth of diapers and a bucket out to the outhouse to dump before returning to fiddle with the kerosene stove and get coffee started.
I tidy upstairs. After night falls, there's not enough light to bother with prep dishes or personal dishes that lasted past dusk. I pass dirty dishes through the window whose left half opens into the hauskuk, the room designated for cooking and washing dishes. There really isn't enough room to do prep as well so I do that upstairs and pass things ready for the heat down through the window.
We enjoy our coffee upstairs with James running around playing. The wasfamili is happier when he's not playing outside and its nice to have a good excuse to have some time for ourselves.
At some point, we're brought breakfast from our wasfamili's fire. The reciprocity culture here says we should bring something back but we don't make breakfast so we'll worry about that at lunch.
When James gets fussy, we go outside to let him play in the dirt. It's usually 7:30-8ish. Then its time to decide what to do with the day. Usually its too late to join people who are planning on trekking a long distance, which I'm ok with.
Sometimes we go to where the men are making thatching and Jacob helps.
Once we went to a garden close by and helped with planting yams. Today there's supposed to be a reconciliation feast we want to see. Sometimes its just a day to catch up on dishes or laundry or on writing.
Around 9, James starts to get sleepy. I'll put him in a bilum and give him a bottle to soothe him into sleep. The women normally walk the babies around until they sleep but I'm not strong enough to walk around with this chunky kid.
If we're at the house, we'll hang him in our living room, right in the center of the cross breeze. Jacob will pick up all his toys and I'll sweep the room with a bush broom that looks like a witchs broom without the stick.
If we're out, we'll find a tree or post to hang him on and shade him with an umbrella if need be.
His morning nap normally doesn't last an hour.
Before you know it, it's time to start lunch. I go upstairs to prep and let James run around with his toys.
Jacob goes down to make sure at least the dishes we need for this meal are clean and he passes me kitchen utensils as I need them.
We normally cook an abundance, enough for ourselves, our wasfamili, people we want to develop relationships with, and anyone who's around when we come out to share.
Cooking so much over a single burner means we're often in a race to finish before James afternoon nap, anywhere between 12:30-2. If James' wassister is at the house, she'll often come and take him, entertaining him while we cook. If we don't finish cooking by his nap time, we won't be able to rest while he sleeps.
After James' afternoon nap, normally between an hour or two, our son is lost to us as all the village children are back at their homes and just love to hold a white baby.
We try to start thinking about dinner at 4. If we're not finished by 6, well find ourselves cooking in the dark. Our lanterns are less than impressive and we don't have a big enough solar charger to use our phones on something as frivolous as light.
5:30 is an excellent time to go visiting and if dinner is done we can bring food to our friends, thus building relationships.
6:30-7 James starts getting tired and reappears out of the night. We give him a bottle before changing his diaper and putting him to bed.
Now if we were good, we would go outside and talk around the fire from 7-10. But normally we're exhausted, the heat of the day sapping all our energy, with the heat radiating down from the tin roof making it impossible to sleep that portion of the day away. And normally, as early as 7, the only people around the fire are our wasfamili who aren't the most stimulating conversationalists.
So we sit inside, enjoying some time just us. Catching up on writing if need be. When we get too sore sitting on wooden stools or the wooden floor, we move into the bedroom.


After getting tucked back into our mosquito net, we put a handful of skittles between us and enjoy a snack while chatting before we turn in for the night.

Thursday, November 5, 2015

Christmas Wish List


Christmas Wish List
I guess it's starting to near that time. The questions been asked: What would you like in a Christmas Care Package?
Which is kinda a confusing question, because I'm thinking, "Care package items? Or Christmas items?" I think there's a nuance there...
So I made a list that includes both!


Snyders Pretzels Original
French's Yellow Mustard
Starbucks Latte Via (Jacob likes mochas, I like white mochas, cinnamon dolce, and peppermint mocha, specifically peppermint white mocha but i don't think they make the via form of that.)
Hot Cocoa mix (Jacob likes dark chocolates. I like milk and white chocolate. We both like mint, sea salt, orange, raspberry )
Silica gel packets (You can buy these but even the ones that come in bags or shoeboxes are nice to toss in our spice jars to keep the moisture out.)
Taco seasoning (we normally buy it in 23oz containers because we use so much of it)
Italian seasoning
Grill shakers Garlic Seasoning (we can normally only find this at Sprouts).
Sleepytime Vanilla Tea
Bavarian Blackberry Tea (We think the brand is Lipton..?)
Goldfish for James
Peppermints (rounds, stirring sticks, canes, we're not picky)
Orange extract
Peppermint extract
Candy (Reese cups, skittle, starburst)
Beef jerky (peppered or teriyaki) (If you claim this on the mailing slip or leave it where it can be seen in an inspection, it will be stolen. Everybody loves beef jerky)


Tortilla press
LED battery operated mounted light (bonus points for a remote)
Latest seasons of Once Upon a Time, Forever, Bones, Arrow, Flash, Gotham, the 100 (I don't know how overlap could be avoided except by sending iTunes cards)
Kindle gift cards are always nice. Jacob wants to start getting James some Dr. Suess books
And as always, coffee mugs are loved. (the wish list can be found on my Pinterest. I would post a link but internet in the bush is finnicky... My username is ElizabethVahey! ...i think)


You can send packages to
Pioneer Bible Translators
C/o Jacob and Elizabeth Smith
Box 997
Madang 511
Papua New Guinea


It takes about a month for packages to arrive. Possibly longer as people start going on holiday.


These packages will receive a fair deal of rough treatment so go overboard on the packing tape so everything makes it. Once the integrity of the box is compromised, it's all downhill from there.


Thank you all so much for taking care of us. Through financial gifts, prayer support,  and even your likes and comments on Facebook that remind us that we're not alone, we really appreciate you.